I originally spied Matala in a travel guide on Greece. Located on the southern shores of Crete, the photos of the town immediately got my attention. The sandstone cliff along one side of the waterfront contained a honeycomb of caves. Intrigued, I added the town to my itinerary immediately.

After spending a day-and-a-half in Athens, wandering around the Plaka and visiting the Acropolis, my friends and I left for the islands. I booked a cabin for us on an overnight ferry and we were soon on our way. We watched the sun dip slowly into the sea as we left the shores of the mainland.

We docked in Heraklion bright and early. From there we had to take a bus to the other side of the island. There was a small café on the docks, and we sat for a while to caffeinate and collect ourselves. Fortunately for us, a nearby museum was open. The Heraklion Archaeological Museum affords a compelling sojourn through the ancient history of the area, featuring art, jewelry, and pottery from Phaistos and Knossos. I delighted in the Phaistian pottery, much of it black with vivid designs in white and a faded brick red. The second-largest city in Minoan Crete, Phaistos (20 miles north of Matala) was discovered by modern surveyors in 1853 and thoroughly investigated by archaeologists. It was an unplanned visit but certainly a welcome one. After we traipsed through town browsing in many shops and for lunch stopped at a snack cart and enjoyed a genuine gyro. Everything tasted good there.

Late in the afternoon we boarded our bus and were on our way at last to the groovy cave beach. This small, natural harbor in the Bay of Messara has an abundance of history and mystery. In legend, Zeus was said to have arrived on shore in the form of the bull with his conquest Electra. The origin of the artificial caves inspired much speculation over the centuries, but most now believe they were carved by Romans or early Christians as hiding places or tombs. Ruins lie in the waters of the bay, a treasure for intrepid snorkelers. The town became an enclave for hippies in the 60s, where Joni Mitchell wrote “Carey” while living in one of the caves. One of my colleagues had been there during that time. He was excited I was following in his footsteps.

Upon arrival, we found a pension just outside of town. Its pathway was lined with honeysuckle, the scent wafting in the sultry evening air. Our room even had a tiny little balcony overlooking the hills that guarded the approach to town as well as a small garden below us.

The beach is a few minutes' walk from anywhere in this charming little town. It’s lined on one side by the intriguing caves and on the other a plethora of restaurants, bars, shops and snack bars. The sandy beach was sparsely populated, as it was still a few weeks before high season. The clear water beckoned. This small Mediterranean alcove is a wonderful place to bask in the warm sun. Floating lazily, rather than exerting oneself, seems to be encouraged.

DESTINATIONS

MICHIGAN'S

UPPER PENINSULA

UTAH ROCKS,

MOAB, UT

MATALA'S RED BEACH,

CRETE

ACADIA &

BAR HARBOR, ME